MAKE ME UP! KAT: TALL WITH FAIR SKIN

The first instalment of my collaboration series with Sunna from 'The New Noir' is finally here! After a gruelling day of outfit changes and makeup application, we can reveal our first model (victim). Meet Kat, an Oriental Studies graduate from London. She is tall with a fair skin tone.

Style-wise, Sunna expertly put together some outfits from Kat's wardrobe which suited her height (my 5ft1 self isn't jealous at all...). We may have made her bedroom look like the aftermath of a particularly vicious day at Primark (hands up if you've ever been to Primark after 4.30pm, looked at the mountains of disordered clothing, and turned straight back around again with a "nope"), but I think you'll agree that Kat looks absolutely stunning in Sunna's style choices! If you'd like to have a look at the final outfits, please head on over to Sunna's blog post.

Now, onto the beauty! Since Kat has just returned from a few months in Beijing, where she left all her makeup, it actually gave us the perfect excuse to go and buy a basic makeup kit. As Kat is a self-confessed beauty beginner, I tried to go for products I knew were both high quality and relatively cheap in price (basically I bought her a lot of the items I own myself). The total value of this kit came to around £50, which may not sound that cheap, but, believe me, it is crazily hard to produce an all-round, practical makeup bag for much less. It does make me seriously worry about the amount of money I've "invested" in my makeup kit over the years. Never try and work out how much cash you've accumulated in Boots and Superdrug points, ladies.

The Products

The items we settled on, and those essentials which I think would work well for a beginner with fair skin, are:

Rimmel Match Perfection foundation in 101 Classic Ivory- especially great for fair skin because the shade range is slightly broader than other drugstore foundations.

Rimmel Stay Matte Powder in 001 Transparent- A great all-round powder. I used it to reduce shine as well as set the concealer where it has a tendency to crease (under the eyes, especially).

Rimmel Lip Crayon in 120 All You Need Is Pink- Brilliant alternative to a bright lipstick because it is much easier to apply and you can build up the coverage from fairly sheer to full-on glamour.

Maybelline The Falsies mascara in Black Drama- One of those mascaras that every beauty blogger knows and swears by. It's also cheap, which is a real find because highstreet mascaras are usually quite expensive.

Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Liner in 01 Black- Just as good as any top-range gel liner and you get a brush included!

Collection Lasting Perfection Concealer in Fair 1- I won't bore you with more praise for this product. If you'd like to see a full review, have a look at this post.

MUA Eyeshadow Palette in Undressed- A £4 dupe for the Urban Decay naked palette with all the neutrals you could possible desire. Especially good for Kat's blue eyes with the pink/gold undertone shades. If you'd like to see a full review of this product, click here, or, alternatively, if you'd like to see what sort of other look you can create with it, check out this tutorial.

Sleek Face Form Kit in Fair- Especially good value for money because you get a great contour, highlight, and blush. The contour is light enough to look subtle and natural on fair skin (as you can probably assume from the colour name; way to state the obvious, Lydia).

Ecotools Bamboo 6 Piece Brush Set- The first brush set I ever owned was actually from Ecotools. I honestly believe that, as an introduction to the (pretty intimidating) world of brushes, you can't get much better for about £16. That's only just over £3 a brush (wow, accurate mental maths and its not even lunchtime yet) and you get a free case included. If you'd like to read some more about Ecotools brushes and see what my first ever set looked like, then here's a post for you.

Eyelash curler (Kat's own)

Flowers (courtesy of Kat's mum)

The Look

A cheeky before for you.

And the after. 

Here's a stock looking-down-so-you-can-see-the-shadow photo.

The look I settled on (or rather the look I ended up with after getting too carried away) is this smokey eye and bold lip combo. I always think a slightly smokey eye is a great going-out idea for beginners because it involves more smudging and less precision. I used the taupey-brown shade (bottom row, third from the right) all over the lid, lined the upper lashline roughly with the gel liner and smudged this in with a bit more of the taupe shade. I ran what was left on the brush of the shadow and gel liner through the crease to add a little extra definition and blended the liner up to meet it. Then, I smudged some more gel liner and the same shadow into the bottom lashline. For a highlight, I used the lightest shade sparingly in the inner corner and on the brow bone. 

I know, I know, a bright lip can wash out pale skin even more, but, I think if it is applied properly and if you don't mind celebrating the fact that your skin might well be so pale that you glow in flash photos (speaking from experience, here) then it can help to create a really stand-out look. Kat likes to wear a red lip, but I thought a pink would be perfect for the spring and summer months. It's also a great way to modernise a really classic look. Plus, I've been loving a bright pink lip at the moment, so I'm a bit biased really. Keep the skin simple with a subtle contour and blush.

5 Tips for Beginners (with a fair skin spin)

1. Ask questions! If you're completely bewildered by the thought of facing those makeup counters, then chat with friends about their favourite products/what they use. Or, if you're going for some high-end makeup ask one of the assistants at the counter. They're there to help. If you have pale skin, it is especially important to get advice about foundation. Certain foundations will look too dark or (god forbid) orange on your skin. 
2. A smudged gel liner or eyeliner pencil is a great introduction to lining your upper lashline. It's more subtle and definitely more foolproof. 
3. Contour should be applied under the cheekbone, on the sides of the forehead, and on the jawline. For the cheekbone contour (which, I admit, is slightly tricky), suck in your cheeks and apply lightly to the hollows you create, or, start at the same height as the middle of your ear and sweep down towards the corner of your lip. 
4. A bright lip is a great way to switch from day to evening. Swipe a lip crayon all over your pout for instant glamour. 
5. Blend any foundation or bronzer down the neck too. Nobody wants to be left with a face three shades darker than the rest of their body (plus, always count Mississippilessly in tanning situations to avoid similar embarrassment- pat yourself on the back smugly if you understand this reference). 

I think Kat looks gorgeous and I hope you all agree! Obviously, this look is more suited for an evening. Please, if you are a beginner, don't start aimlessly wandering the streets with full-on bold eyes and lips. If you'd like a more natural look for pale skin, then please check out my recent spring makeup look. I really enjoyed the challenge of applying makeup to someone else and hope you've found this interesting and useful. Check back in a couple of weeks for a new Make Me Up! I'll start sharpening my eyeliner pencils for the next "participant". 

FOTD: SIMPLE SPRING MAKEUP LOOK

The sun makes me happy. It's a fact really. I'm sitting here tapping away to the picturesque backdrop of a springtime evening and I can't quite believe that I honestly cannot see a cloud in the sky. This, for England, so early on in the season, is somewhat of a miracle. While it lasts, I thought I'd take advantage of the beautiful weather by taking some photos of the makeup I have been loving at the moment. This isn't quite a tutorial (mostly because the look is so simple that a step-by-step really isn't necessary), more a FOTD (face of the day). Wow, look at me using proper beauty blogging terms! Hopefully, this will be inspiration for those of you who are looking to give your look a bit of spring-clean for the start of a new season.

For spring and summer, I tend to live by the beauty mantra that "less is more" (and also not nearly as time-consuming). I blended MAC's Wedge eyeshadow all over my lid, on top of a base (MAC's painterly paint pot). Then, I attacked my inner corners with far more of MAC's Nylon than any girl ever needs.* The ultra-shimmery inner corner highlight looks really pretty when it catches the sun and was also a key trend for S/S 2014 (yes, I know, I'm always so on-trend). I finished off with some winged gel liner. As my eyes are quite big and round, I usually try and thicken the liner at the outer edge to elongate them slightly, but, of course, you could change style according to your own eye shape. And, with lots and lots of mascara, that's the eyes done!

I am so pale that, in the summer, whilst others get a lovely golden glow to the skin, my glow is more a blinding white. So, I usually apply bronzer to the high points of the face (forehead, cheeks, nose, chin) to fake that sun kissed look (don't tell anyone). A quick tip for you: if you're using a pink-toned blusher, apply a little of that over the bronzer to  make it look more realistic. Often when we tan, the skin gets a slightly pink undertone. It really does work, I promise. With a slick of tinted lip balm, the look is complete.

The Products
MAC Nylon and Wedge (far left top and bottom of my rather empty palette)
MAC Omega (for my brows)
MAC Paintpot in Painterly
Rimmel Match Perfection foundation in 101 Classic Ivory
Rimmel Scandaleyes Waterproof Kohl Liner in Nude
Rimmel Stay Matte Powder in 001 Transparent
Collection Lasting Perfection concealer in 1 Light
Collection Blush and Highlighter Cream Duo in Strawberries and Cream
Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Liner in 01 Black
Maybelline Baby Lips in Cherry Me
Sleek Face Form in Light
L'Oreal Miss Manga mascara in Black

*Sorry for the MAC invasion, just got a few products for my birthday so, of course, I've been using them incessantly.

SPOTLIGHT PALETTE: RETRO SMOKEY EYE

I've never been one to wear a bold lip. They've just always seemed so much more effort than they're worth; the constant touch ups and very real fear of a lipstick-on-the-teeth moment has kept me firmly sticking to the tinted lip balms. A few months ago, however, I was introduced by the YouTuber Beautycrush to the most amazing lipstick I had ever seen. That's not an understatement. Believe me. I'm not the only one who's been loving this colour. I had to visit my local MAC several times before they had it back in stock. Not that I'm complaining. Any excuse to visit MAC is fine with me!

The colour is 'All Fired Up' (a bright fuchsia) and it's part of MAC's Retro Matte line. Here's a close up of my lips so you can see it in all its beautiful glory.

So, today I felt inspired to create a retro eye look to accompany this lovely new lipstick. It's a kind of sultry, smokey eye with a slight cat flick. I will be using the MUA 'Undressed' palette which I have reviewed in full, here. Perfect for those of you (like me) who can't afford to spend a tonne on makeup now they've invested in a £15 MAC lipstick.

Let's begin the tutorial!

1. Ensure you start with an even base on your eyelid. I don't use a primer, as such. I just apply my concealer (Collection Lasting Perfection) over my eyelid as I find it works perfectly to stop my eyeshadow from creasing.

2. Apply the lightest matte brown all over the lid. This will just help to soften the darker shadow once we apply it on top. No one wants a harsh smokey eye.

3. Use a gel liner (I used the Maybelline one) to line your upper lash line and wing it at the outer corner.

4. Blend the dark plum-tone shadow (bottom row, third from the right) all over the lid to create a hazy effect which will help to soften the liner slightly. This is especially great if you're not quite the best at applying eyeliner because it should help to even out any mistakes you have made.

5. Use the lightest shade (top row, first on the left) to highlight the inner corner and the brow bone. I added a bit of Topshop's Glow first to really enhance the shine.

6. Curl your lashes and add lashings (geddit?) of your favourite mascara. Also, line your waterline with a dark eye pencil. I used Rimmel's Scandaleyes in bronze because I find it's not as harsh as black and it brings out the green of my eyes. A dark purple or brown would look lovely too.

And that's it! Pretty straightforward, huh?

For the true retro bombshell look, I think it's only right that you contour your face to within an inch of it's life. After all, what's an Old Hollywood look without cheekbones you could cut yourself on? This is especially important for me as my cheekbones are pretty much non-existent.

I used the contour powder in Sleek's 'Light Face Form' kit for this. I applied it to the hollows of my cheeks, the sides of my forehead, under my jaw and chin, and on my ears (just to make sure they weren't glowing white next to the rest of my face, I'm really pale, guys). 

Then, I added the Collection cream blush in 'Strawberries and Cream' to my cheeks and used Topshop's Glow highlighter on the tops of my cheekbones, down my nose, and on my cupid's bow.

I hope you all like the look and that's it's given you some inspiration. It's very likely I'll be wearing this for me birthday party next week. Let me know if there's a certain makeup style you'd like me to create next!

HOW TO: LOOK FRESH AND FABULOUS IN FIVE MINUTES

(A guide to waking up/dragging out your inner morning person)

Seeing as we are already at the end of the holiday period and (unfortunately) many of us have returned to the monotonous early mornings of work/school life, I thought this would be the perfect time to offer out a few time-saving makeup tips I have learnt over the years. Truth be told, I often have that feeling of sheer panic in the morning when I realise I have hit the snooze button one too many times (why even offer us that option?!) So, I can confidently assure you that these techniques have been tried and tested for speed and effectiveness more times than I'd care to admit. 

1. A cold face wash works every time

Nothing can force away the sleep from your eyes quite as forcefully as a splash of ice cold water over you face. Additionally, it gets your skin clean and smooth, ready for any rushed makeup application that may follow. At the moment I am using Garnier PureActive Anti-Imperfection Gel, mostly because it is currently on offer in Superdrug. However, I have to say I am,so far, impressed with the results. It leaves my skin feeling fresh and squeaky clean. I also like that it has a pump applicator. Perfect for people, like me, who are far too lazy for a screw cap in the mornings. 

2. A good concealer is your best friend 

I am a firm believer that it is possible to skip the foundation step as long as you know how to work a bit of magic with your concealer. Apply to the centre of your face (especially under your eyes, around your nose, your chin and on the centre of your forehead) and blend out. I like to use a shade which is slightly too light for my skin tone to give more dimension to my face. Also apply to any blemishes or areas of redness. My all-time favourite concealer is Collection Lasting Perfection. It is great coverage and very good value for money (stay tuned for a full review on Friday!) I use the lightest of the shades. 

3. Nude eyeliner: the secret superhero

I sometimes find that my eyes can look a bit red and puffy in the mornings. To brighten them up I use a nude eyeliner on my lower waterline which helps to create a bright, wide-eyed effect. This step only takes a few seconds and will make such a difference to the appearance of your eyes. It is more natural than using a white liner which I think can look a bit harsh. I use Rimmel's Scandaleyes Waterproof liner in 'nude' which lasts very well on the waterline and is inexpensive. 

4. Give your lashes a lift

A quick squeeze of some eyelash curlers and a few coats of mascara before you leave the house will just add to that wide-eyed effect we have already begun to create. The brand of the eyelash curlers really isn't of particular importance. Just ensure you hold them for at least 10 seconds on each eye so that the curl holds. If it's of any interest, I am currently using a Revlon eyelash curler which I purchased at Superdrug. Then, wiggle your favourite mascara as close to the roots as possible to help to thicken up the lashline. A tip I find very useful when I am applying mascara is to have a mirror directly under my face, angled up to the ceiling. It may not be a very flattering position but it helps to stop mascara getting on your eyelids, especially handy when you're in a bit of a rush. 

5. The cherry on top: a flush of colour

You may wish to apply a little colour to the apples of your cheeks in order to give your face a bit off depth and also the illusion of a youthful and healthy appearance. A cream blush will always give a more natural look. Topshop have some nice cream blushes and, for a cheaper option, Collection do a beautiful blush and highlight duo. Or, opt for a stain which can be used on both the cheeks and lips. I always like to finish my morning look with a slick of tinted lipbalm which I can then throw into my bag to top up during the day. My favourite of the moment is Maybelline's Baby Lips in 'Cherry Me'. It is buildable so you can either wear it sheer or apply a few layers for a more intense look.

I hope these tips have been useful to those of you who have as many problems with time management as I do. On the plus side, since the fresh face, natural makeup look is going to be a big trend for Sprimg/Summer '14, you'll be fashionable as well as on time! 

X

POCKET MONEY PURCHASE: COLLECTION 2 IN 1 CREAM BLUSH AND HIGHLIGHTER

Price: £4.19

There seems to be a recurring pattern with this series, doesn't there? It's just fact, really. When it comes to uber-cheap, good quality beauty products, you just can't beat a bit of Collection. I purchased this cream blush and highlighter duo quite a few weeks back and I've been hooked ever since! The shade I have is 'Strawberries and Cream' which is a pink-toned blush. They also do a 'Peaches and Cream' where the blush is much more, well, peach-toned. 

I can tell you now, the pros far outweigh the cons with regards to this product. So, lets skim through the bad points quickly first to get them out of the way. The biggest downside for me is really that I would love more of a colour selection. Let's face it, if there were more than two colour choices to this range, my makeup bag would be a lot heavier, and my purse a lot lighter. The other two qualms I have with the product relate to the packaging and layout. The actual container itself is rather cheap looking and I think it would be very easily broken. Additionally, the sections of blush and highlighter are so small that it's actually quite hard to get a brush into one of them. 

So, where do I start with the praise? For under £5 the pigmentation is un-be-lievable. I've uploaded a cheeky swatch photo for you (sorry, it's actually pretty hard to swatch this product but it's amazing, I promise it isn't just a picture of a sparkly bruise). Not only does it apply brilliantly, but is also wears very well throughout the day. Owing to its creamy consistency, the finish is very natural and fades subtly. Possibly the most important point to make is that, in terms of highstreet brands, a good (actually ANY) cream blush is hard to find. I find this strange because, in general, cream blushes sit far more naturally on the skin than powder blushes. An overuse of powder products on the face can leave your skin looking cakey. Thus, it's always good to change it up a bit with a cream product and this is a great gateway cream blush to start with before you start buying the hardcore, expensive, designer stuff. 

All in all, I would definitely recommend this product. Yes, the highlight isn't the best I've ever used on the highstreet and it is quite a frosty finish, but, even if you only use the blush, it is still great value for money. I like to pair the blush with a warmer highlight. The one I am using at the moment is Topshop's 'Glow' highlight which I have most definitely fallen head over heels for. X

SPOTLIGHT PRODUCT: A MODERN TAKE ON 'VINTAGE ROMANCE'

This is the third look in my tutorial series on Sleek's 'Vintage Romance' Palette. For a full review and information on the product itself, please see my original post, here.

I have to say, I did set out with a Valentine's day look in mind when I began to create this makeup tutorial. The end result, however, is slightly more dramatic than I had originally intended. The moral of this story: don't listen to Deadmau5 whilst you're trying to embrace your inner-romantic. Sometimes, though, spontaneity gives you the best possible results. So, if you're attending a party this Valentine's Day, or you just prefer to be considerably more extrovert with your makeup choices, this look may be exactly what you're looking for.

And here's a before and after for you:

Anyway, on with the tutorial!

Top row (from left): step 1, step 2; bottom row (from left): step 3, step 4

Step 1: Prime your eyelid with a base. I used my Collection 'Perfection Concealer'. I then decided to go all out with the sparkle and added an extra base of my Topshop 'Glow' highlight all over the lid.

Step 2: Pack 'Meet in Madrid' onto the eyelid using a shader brush. We want the gold to remain as intense as possible so try and keep it very vivid.

Step 3: Blend 'Marry in Monte Carlo' into your crease using your favourite blending brush (yes, this is a rather sparkly shadow to be putting in your crease, but what's Valentine's Day without a bit of unnecessary glitter?)

Step 4: Using a gel eyeliner, draw a line along the upper lashes and add a cat flick that comes out to the crease. My favourite gel eyeliner is the Maybelline 'Eyestudio' which is very good quality for such a value product. You get a brush included as well!

Top row (from left): step 5, step 6; bottom row (from left): step 7, step 8

Step 5: Apologies, this isn't actually a step. I just wanted to make a quick note that this look would be a perfect softer option for Valentine's Day. If you prefer, you can stop here and just add a bit of mascara.

Step 6: Using an angled liner brush (mine was an ecotools one), begin to draw a line with 'Honeymoon in Hollywood' which begins from the point of the cat flick and continues across into your crease. Also, add a some of this shade beneath the cat flick and under your lower lash line. I did also push some of this shadow over the gel liner itself to give it a softer appearance. Blend the shadow out so that it does not look too harsh and add some more 'Marry in Monte Carlo' to the crease if you feel the pink has lost its potency.

Step 7: I added a little 'Love in London' to the lower lash line to help blend the black liner into the rest of the look.

Step 8: Apply a generous amount of mascara to really thicken those lashes and line your lower waterline with some nude pencil. By this point, I felt I might as well go for it and added some gold glitter over the top of the 'Meet in Madrid'. The glitter I used was actually a glitter gel liner from Collection called 'Glam Crystals' in the shade 'Funk 3'. Collection products do tend to be very good value for money and I believe this was no exception. Come to think of it, I may have got it free with another purchase.

This marks the end of my tutorial series on this palette. Nevertheless, there are many, many more looks I could happily create using the beautiful range of shades Sleek has provided. X